Annfield House, Porterstown – Local History Castleknock

Annfield House, Porterstown. Photo taken c. 1981 before the surrounding fields were developed. Courtesy of the Reynolds Collection

Annfield House, a detached five-bay two-storey over basement house, was built c.1740. It is situated on the Porterstown Road in Clonsilla, within the townland of the same name.

Annfield House, Porterstown. Photo courtesy of niah.ie

Annfield House was the birthplace of John T. Troy, born in 1739. In 1776, he was Catholic Bishop of Ossary and by 1786, he had been elevated to the Archbishopric of Dublin on the death of his cousin, Dr. John Carpenter. Troy built the Pro-Cathedral in Dublin during the early nineteenth century and was buried there when he died in 1823.

Griffith’s Valuation (1847-1864) shows Lawrence Reynolds as the occupier of Annfield House. The Kennan family also lived there at one time. The Rooney family are shown as resident there in the 1901 census and the 1929 Thom’s Directory shows T. Ray as the occupier. The 1935 Directory of Dublin shows the occupier as E.M. Quirke and the rateable valuation back then was £44.

The townland of Annfield has an area of over 18 acres and sits within the Civil Parish of Castleknock, in the Barony of Castleknock. Annfield borders the townlands of Astagob (Clonsilla) to the south, Kellystown to the west and Porterstown to the north. The Irish name for Annfield is Gort Anna.

Annfield House still stands but the land surrounding the house has been developed and the new housing estate carries the same name.

Turf piles and Allotments in the Phoenix Park WWII – Local History Castleknock

As World War II started when I was twelve, I remember those years well. Although Ireland was neutral, precautions still had to be taken to combat the difficulties with imports and exports and the danger of attack, so the Government brought in certain measures during this period, which was  known as ‘The Emergency.’

Cycling along turf-lined Chesterfield Avenue, the main thoroughfare in the Phoenix Park

TURF MOUNDS

During the Emergency, The Turf Board, now Bord na Mona, was established to organise the cutting of turf on the midland bogs and transport it to the cities and towns. Between 1942-47, over a half million tons of hand-cut turf was transported to Dublin by canal, by train and by army lorries to be stored in high mounds of up to thirty feet, on the Fifteen Acres and along Chesterfield Avenue in the Phoenix Park, also known as the “Long Straight” from Grand Prix racing days and later, by another name, “the new bog road.” In addition, wire bales and timber bollards, side-by-side and up to roof height, were placed at intervals of about 200 yards, to prevent planes using the road as a runway. As cyclists could not get by, a few of them used to get together and move the bollards, leaving gaps so that cyclists could at least dismount and negotiate around the turf banks. Every now and then, the powers-that-be dragged them in close again. For the duration of the Emergency, this performance went on of alternate gaps-no gaps.

Collecting turf from the Phoenix Park

In the early 20th century, a range of state and voluntary organisations followed the lead of UK and USA organisations and started an allotment movement. One such charitable organisation called the Vacant Land Cultivation Society (VLCS) begged and borrowed derelict or uncultivated land from both private individuals and Dublin Corporation and carved it into allotments. The aim was to help supplement the diets and incomes of the city’s poor by enabling plot-holders to grow their own vegetables, fruit and flowers. Each year, a produce show was held in the Mansion House with prizes presented by Dublin nursery firms, James W. Mackey Ltd. and Messrs. Alex Dickson. The Royal Dublin Society, in association with the Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland, used to  award monetary prizes for allotment holders.

After World War I, Dublin Corporation built houses on lands once used for allotments and this caused a significant reduction in the availability of land for allotments. While replacement allotments were set up further out in the suburbs, travelling distances discouraged take up and overall, interest in allotments waned. With the arrival of WWII  and food shortages, there was a renewed interest in grow-your-own and a corresponding increase in applications to Dublin Corporation to rent allotments.

During WWII, there was a scurry to listen to news bulletins on the radio and newsreels were shown before films in cinemas to keep people abreast of the happenings. People were obliged to keep lights off at night and employ ‘blackout’ curtains to cover the windows, as lights were liable to attract attention from stray bomber planes. At one stage, bombs were dropped at the North Strand and in the Phoenix Park.

The Government rationed gas supplies during the war and employed men called ‘glimmermen’ to police usage of gas. They had the power to swoop unexpectedly and enter households to check for excessive gas use. Once the word went around that the glimmerman was in the area, householders quickly blew out the pilot light but he often arrived and put his hand on the cooker before it had time to cool down. Then the household was in trouble as their gas supply was cut off for a few weeks.

Silvermount, Strawberry Beds – Local History Castleknock

 

Silvermount, Lower Road, Strawberry Beds. Detached seven-bay single-storey former school, c.1880, with two gable-fronted projecting porches. Now in use as a house. 

Courtesy niah.ie

Huntsman’s House, Strawberry Beds – Local History Castleknock

 

Huntsman’s House, Lower Road, Fingal. Courtesy niah.ie

Detached four-bay two-storey house, c.1910.

Keeping pigeons – Local History Castleknock

My interest in pigeons started when Harold Haggard, who lived on the Lower Road, gave me a pair of pigeons, a male and a female.

I got a wooden box from our shop and affixed it to the back wall of our house, below the landing window.

They bred quickly, producing two to three eggs about four times a year, which represented a fair level of expansion in the pigeon box. With me being away all day long, my mother used to feed them. This led to her gaining ‘best friend’ status, such that every time she went to attend to clothes on the washing line, pigeons were landing on her shoulders and circling overhead, which she never seemed to mind.

However, pigeons being a sociable species, the number of pigeons expanded exponentially when they set off on daily forays and brought back an array of friends to be fed. In the space of about two years, the congregation was in the region of up to thirty pigeons, most of whom lined up on the ridge tiles of the roof – a bird’s eye view – but some who hung about on the gutters.

Then one day somebody left the landing window open. Our cat saw his opportunity. He got out the window, eased himself onto the pigeon box and caused mayhem. Many pigeons were lost and the remainder never returned to the box. Instead, they kept themselves safe on the roof or the gutters. Or so they thought. A hawk moved into the territory and began picking the pigeons off one by one. Between the killings and those who fled the scene, it brought an end to the pigeons. Down came the pigeon box.

Park Villas, Peck’s Lane, Castleknock – Local History Castleknock

According to a number of accounts by children who contributed to the Schools Folklore Collection (duchas.ie) back in 1937, Peck’s Lane takes its name from a former resident – Colonel Peck – see below for extracts from these accounts.

Park Villas comprised several rows of artisan houses built along Peck’s Lane in the 1920s for ex-British soldiers. The houses have a distinctive dormer style with a red lattice pattern roof. They usually had four rooms and a scullery, with a front garden and generous rear gardens, for growing vegetables. These ex-army houses were built in small pockets countrywide, usually in blocks of four or six in urban areas and either semi-detached or detached in rural areas. This housing stock was managed by a Trust until the 1950s, when they were offered for sale to the tenants. These ex-army style houses are still recognisable today, despite extensions and alterations. All bar one of the gardens in Park Villas now accommodate new houses.

Park Villas, Peck’s Lane. The last house with its garden site cleared for development.

A large number of families lived in Park Villas. Some who come to mind are the Forans, the Dempseys, the Purcells, the Byrnes, the Walkers, the Caseleys, the Kellys, the Hills, the Spaines, the Harfords and the Christians, among many others. Many of the children from Peck’s Lane were at school in Castleknock – some made contributions to the already mentioned Schools Folklore Collection.

My father’s best man was Jimmy Christian, originally from Blackhorse Lane, as we called it. Jimmy moved to Peck’s Lane after he married. Jimmy’s son, Tommy Christian, was a friend of mine from the scouts and went to my school. When I was about fourteen, one of Tommy’s sisters arrived over at my house on her bike with a jumper she had knitted. I presumed she had knit it for Tommy and it didn’t fit.

Across the lane, Jack Fagan, the local meter reader, lived in a bungalow that backed onto fields. He went about his business on a bike, with a thick ledger strapped to the rear carrier. At the far end of Peck’s Lane just at the Navan Road junction was the Seagraves’ imposing farm house. Tessa Seagrave, who had a head of curly hair, was in school with me. Our neighbour, Mickey Harford, was also brought up in Peck’s Lane.

One of my uncles, Tommy Reilly, an ex-British soldier, lived in Park Villas with his wife, Maggie, and my nine Reilly cousins – Tom, Fanny, Peg, Jen, Agnes, Sadie, May, Josie and Nell. The girls were much sought after at local dances, as they were good-looking, great dancers and always dressed to the nines.

Another uncle, Peter Reynolds, also an ex-British soldier, lived in Park Villas with his wife, Margaret (nee Plunkett) and my Reynolds cousins – Tommy, Peter, Kathleen, Peggy and Nora. My uncle Peter had served in World War I and was gassed at Arras in France. Afterwards, he got a job in the Civil Service where he rose in the ranks. Peggy Reynolds and May Reilly were close friends – they were both cousins of mine but not related to each other.

At the junction of Peck’s Lane and Castleknock Road, Hannah Phelan lived in a two storey double-fronted house with fields behind it. What I particularly remember from my childhood is the stuffed squirrel she had on the window ledge over the front door. Nearby, the Clarke family lived for a while in a cottage with its gable end to the road.

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In 1937, schoolchildren around the country were asked to make contributions giving details about their locality, or how people lived – what they ate, cures, ghost stories or folklore, all of which forms the The Schools’ Collection, originals which are held at the  National Folklore Collection in UCD.

This extract from Kitty Smith of Park Villas is held under Volume 0791, Page 67.

And here is another extract from the Schools Folklore Collection by Marie Cassidy:

And another contribution from Rita Purcell of Park Villas:

And another contribution from Sheila Byrne of Park Villas:

Another contribution from Rita Purcell of Park Villas:

And another contribution from Peg Reynolds of Park Villas:

Clarke’s former cottage, Lower Road, Strawberry Beds

Lower Road, Strawberry Beds.

The Clarke family lived in the cottage in the photo from about the mid 1940s to the late 1970s, when Mrs. Clarke moved to Ashtown. Unable to identify the children.

In the background is the Iron footbridge that spanned the River Liffey, known as the ‘Guinness’ bridge.

Castleknock P.O., Molloy’s shop and bookies (later Castleknock Flowers) and the Oratory – Local History Castleknock

Old Post Office, Castleknock village. Courtesy http://www.buildingsofireland.ie

Up the granite steps to the old Post Office and the customer opened the door to the ding-a-ling of the shop bell. Taking a step forward onto the bare floorboards was like taking a step back in time. On the right, a counter stretched the full length of the shop. A sheet of frosted glass divided the Post Office part at the front from the shop end towards the back. A step ladder was often needed to retrieve provisions stacked on shelves up to the ceiling. The Breens ran the Post Office for years – Miss Mary Breen worked in the Post Office until she was in her nineties. From 1946, they were ably assisted by Miss Jane Meade. Our regular postman was Billy Bryan; another full time postmistress, Miss Sarah Toole, used to ride an oversized bicycle. Both of them lived in the row of houses across from the Protestant school, Castleknock Cottages. The telephone number for the Post Office was Castleknock 1. 

Old Post Office telephone number: Castleknock 1. Extract 1946 Telephone Directory, Courtesy Little Museum of Dublin

On Miss Mary Breen’s retirement, Miss Meade took over.  After Miss Meade retired, the Post Office was transferred into a shop opposite Myo’s pub called ‘Something Else’ but it has since re-located.

Eventually the old red brick Post Office building was sold on. The building now houses the Castleknock Dental Practice and its character has been retained.

Photo: The renovated P.O. building now houses Castleknock Dental Practice

Photo: Molloy’s former shop in Castleknock village with adjacent bookie’s, later the premises for Castleknock Flowers. The door to the left was once the entrance to an oratory and more latterly, the premises housing Liffey Memorials. Courtesy Reynolds Family Private Collection

The Molloy family had a grocery and newsagent shop in Castleknock – their telephone number was Castleknock 46. Mrs. Molloy ran the shop along with shop assistants, sometimes assisted by her three daughters. Joe Molloy was a small builder as well as a bookmaker that stood at various racecourses. Behind the shop, a bookie’s was housed in a wooden structure. My uncle, Larry Reynolds, worked in the betting shop at one time and later on, Larry’s daughter – my cousin Bridie – worked there for years.

Molloy’s telephone number: Castleknock 46. Extract 1946 Telephone Directory, Courtesy Little Museum of Dublin

By the 1970s, the Walsh family were running the shop. It later became the premises for Castleknock Flowers.

During the 1970s/1980s, the door to the left of the shop was the entrance to an oratory, where parishioners could call in to say a prayer. At that stage, there was no Catholic church in Castleknock – building of the Catholic church only finished in 1983. The oratory more latterly became the premises of Liffey Memorials.

Molloy’s shop premises together with the lands behind and to the right of the shop, to include Browne’s house (green door below) were the subject of a long planning battle which was finally lost in 2018.

Former home of Browne family, Castleknock village; Courtesy Reynolds family private collection

Former home of Browne family, Castleknock village; Courtesy Reynolds family private collection

Former home of Browne family, Castleknock village; Courtesy Reynolds family private collection

Molloy’s shop premises and Browne’s house were demolished in 2018 for the construction of a Lidl supermarket. The following photos show the progress of the build.

Browne’s house is now demolished. Courtesy Reynolds Family Collection

Molloy’s premises is now demolished (photos above and below). Courtesy Reynolds Family Collection

Grand Lodge, Luttrellstown Castle – Local History Castleknock

Grand Lodge of Luttrellstown Castle, Lower Road, Strawberry Beds

The Grand Lodge of Luttrellstown Castle is situated at the Lucan end of the Lower Road, a little beyond the Strawberry Beds. A detached single-storey gate lodge built around 1870, it has a pedimented entrance porch. The lodge is set behind ashlar limestone piers with cast-iron railings and gates. Although the Grand Lodge was intended as the main entrance to Luttrellstown Castle, I do not recall this entrance ever being used.

Throughout my childhood in the 1930s/1940s, the Dempsey family lived in the Grand Lodge. Timmy Dempsey was a few years younger than me and was a great man for fishing, usually on the River Liffey.

Beyond the Grand Lodge a Blind Arch from the 1780’s spans the carriage driveway in the glen. A classical Doric temple of the same vintage stands overlooking the 20-acre lake  and a waterfall. The ruins of a Gothic folly provide an added attraction.

In my childhood, people used the entrance at the sharp bend near to Clonsilla. In through the Clonsilla entrance gate and a long bridge brought you over the lake.

The Italian ambassador lived at Luttrellstown Castle during WW2 while the chatelaine, the Honourable Aileen Plunkett, was away. During this time, locals more or less used the demesne as a public park. Over the wall we’d go, sometimes with dogs trailing behind, to shoot, catch rabbits or fish, keeping an eye out all the while for the steward, Mr. Pilgrim.

Myself and a pal, Tommy Fox of Orchard Terrace, Clonsilla, caught seventy fish between us one afternoon, to include perch, roach and eels – most we brought home and fed to our cats.

Another thing we used to do was  ‘borrow’ the boat from the boathouse. It was hard enough to negotiate the boathouse which overshot the lake – you had to edge along a ridge on one side of the boathouse until you reached the open front.

One time, myself and Tommy Fox and about four girls from Clonsilla ‘borrowed’ the boat and there we were rowing across the lake when we heard shouting. There they were, Mr. Pilgrim and the Italian ambassador, waving and shouting from across the lake, beckoning us over. We rowed to the opposite side of the lake, tied up the boat, waved back at them and scarpered.

Things tightened up when the chatelaine returned after the war and ‘no trespasser’ signs were erected by her steward.

Farmleigh newspaper delivery round – Local History Castleknock

Front Lodge, Knockmaroon          College Lodge

One of the newspaper delivery rounds from our shop, ‘Glen Stores,’ was the Farmleigh round, which also covered residents in the Phoenix Park. The route by bicycle from our shop in Carpenterstown started along the College Road, right turn at the College Lodge and along Tower Road.

Farmleigh’s Gate Lodge at Clock Tower, former Lennon family home. Courtesy Reynolds Family Private Collection

Gate Lodge, Clock Tower                             Clock Tower

Next, it was in past Farmleigh’s clock tower and the gate lodge where the Lennon family lived. On up the avenue and straight up to the front portico door of Farmleigh where a retainer answered the door or sometimes, he’d be out front waiting on the newspaper.

Farmleigh, former home of the Earl of Iveagh

After delivering at the big house, it was down the front avenue, past the ornamental lake and out through Farmleigh’s main entrance gate into the Phoenix Park.

Farmleigh’s front gate lodge

Park Lodge, Phoenix Park (beside White’s gate)

The first delivery was to the park keeper, Fred Fisher, who lived at Park Lodge beside White’s Gate.

Entrance gate, Ordnance Survey

Back on my bike again, I continued my paper round at the Ordnance Survey. In through the gates to deliver newpapers to four or five residents there. When they upped security for some reason at the Ordnance Survey, deliveries had to be left with the gateman which suited fine as it made the round quicker.

Originally, the Ordnance Survey building was home to Lord Mountjoy. It was later converted into a cavalry barracks called Mountjoy Barracks. This is how the nearby crossroads junction at Chesterfield Avenue became known as ‘Mountjoy corner.‘ In 1824, the Ordnance Survey of Ireland (OSI) took up residence and officers had charge of a survey that mapped Ireland for valuation and taxation purposes. After 1998, military involvement with the Ordnance Survey was phased out. Over the years, the building expanded to include a print works and a shop with maps for sale that is still open to the public.

Rose Cottage, Phoenix Park

Out the Ordnance Survey gate and back into the Phoenix Park. The next delivery was to the park deerkeeper, who lived at Rose Cottage, a detached hexagonal-shaped cottage surrounded by a high hedge. The cottage is unchanged today.

As this ended the newspaper round, it was back to White’s Gate and down White’s Road past Lord Iveagh’s farmyard at Farmleigh. Incidentally , it was never called White’s Road when I was growing up – locals always called it Weekes’s Road. Straight through the crossroads then down the College Road towards home.

White’s Road (aka Weekes’s Road) with Farmleigh’s farmyard in the background